If you've ever climbed into a Florida attic, you've seen what batts can't reach: the dozens of irregular bays around trusses, the corners under the rafters, the gaps where someone walked through last time. Blown-in insulation fixes that. It flows like a thick snow into every nook, settles into a continuous layer, and gives you a uniform R-value across the whole attic, not just where the batts ended up.
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Top-off: best when existing insulation is dry, clean, and still in decent shape. Full reset: best when insulation is wet, rodent-contaminated, moldy, heavily compacted, or mixed with suspect material.
Both work. The right choice depends on your home and goals.
Anyone can rent a blower and dump cellulose into an attic. Performance comes from the steps that happen before the blower turns on:
For climate zone 2 (Florida), the U.S. DOE recommends R-30 to R-49 in the attic. Most upgrades land at R-38, which is roughly 14 inches of fiberglass or 10 to 11 inches of cellulose.
Modern blown-in fiberglass is engineered for very minimal settling. Cellulose settles slightly more (typically 10 to 20% over a few years), which we account for at install. We blow extra so the final settled depth still hits your target R-value.
Yes, as long as the existing insulation is dry, clean, and uncompressed. This is called over-blowing and is a great way to upgrade an under-performing attic without paying for removal.
Yes. Both fiberglass and treated cellulose are designed to perform in humid climates. Proper attic ventilation and baffles where needed help manage humidity alongside the insulation layer.